For the average biologist or bird ringer, handling a vulture may be intimidating or even dangerous. Even ringers who are comfortable handling large eagles may find their hands full trying to process a vulture. There are several important differences in the best techniques used to process vultures versus other large raptors. The techniques detailed here have been refined over the past fifteen years of VulPro’s experience working with vultures in southern Africa.
Vultures can be intimidating due to their size and their so-called ‘aggressive nature’1, so it is important to handle these birds with care and understanding. The primary concern when handling these threatened species is to avoid injury and stress to the bird, while also minimising risk of injury to the handler.
There is no need to ever use excessive force. Vultures are sensitive and respond well to calm and control, rather than forceful and aggressive handling methods. When cornered, any vulture will try to flee but may act aggressively if no avenue for escape is available. Following these protocols will minimize the risk of injury to both vultures and handlers.
Transportation is potentially stressful for every bird and all care should be taken to keep the bird as calm as possible. The binding of a vulture’s feet, beaks, or wings is totally contraindicated and should never be done. If the transportation of vultures will be a common procedure, purpose–built crates are recommended. VulPro uses wooden boxes large enough for the bird to stand but not large enough for it to open its wings. VulPro crates measure 800mm long x 750mm high x 460mm wide and are sufficient to transport all larger vulture species. VulPro crates have doors at one end which slide up so that there are no obstructions like door frames or hinges. The door can easily be slid up a small amount, whereupon the bird is observed before being carefully grasped by the neck. Once the bird is restrained, the door is removed to facilitate removal. Each side has several large ventilation holes which are then covered with shade netting to reduce light and keep curious fingers out of the vulture’s reach. Each crate should be lined with a pre-cut swath of carpet. These carpets prevent the bird from sliding, are easier to clean than the crate itself, and are more shred-resistant than blankets. Carpets are preferred to blankets as they do not slide in comparison to blankets that can slide and bunch up resulting in the bird standing directly on the bottom and not on the blanket covering the inside bottom of the crate.
The inside surface of the crate should be sealed (e.g. varnished or painted), such that it can be effectively washed and then disinfected after each use. The cage should always be stored with the door removed, to ensure good ventilation so that fungal growth is avoided. Crates should also be stored indoors and not outside to protect the crates from the elements.
It is understood that it is not possible to always have a vulture-specific crate available. Make-shift crates or boxes can certainly be used. However, the most critical aspects of any transportation method are that the box reduces the risk of further injury to the bird and to handlers, minimizes stress, has ample ventilation and a stable temperature. Never transport birds in wire basket cages. Birds are at high risk of severe feather damage if they try to flap inside this style of container or rub their bodies against the sides. Once the bird is in the crate, it should always be kept in a shaded location, or at least in a place where a constant comfortable temperature can be maintained. Whilst in transit airflow will typically prevent overheating. Care must be taken once stationary as birds may rapidly overheat.
These methods of temporary housing should only be considered if the bird is to be housed for a few hours, up to 3 days, until the bird can be transported to a licensed vulture rehabilitation facility or more suitable housing. If the bird is to be housed longer than a few days, other arrangements must be considered. See the long-term housing section below.
Stress management is a critical aspect to consider when housing compromised or injured birds. The bird should be kept in a quiet place, free from noise, onlookers, dogs or any other form of danger. Dim lighting is often beneficial. Patients must be provided with shade and water. A large, low bowl (10 litres or more) is sufficient. If the bird is not mobile, temperature control is far more critical, as it will not have the ability to move in and out of the shade as needed.
The size of the enclosure, garage, shed, etc, is also very important. At a bare minimum, the bird should be able to spread its wings fully, but it should not be longer than 10 metres so that if the bird flaps and tries to fly, it will not be possible to gain speed and/or height. All sharp points, sharp objects, and other dangerous items should be removed.
The material in which the enclosure is made is also important, as brick, chicken mesh, and welded mesh have the potential to injure their feathers and extremities. If there is no place with suitable material, it is acceptable to cover the internal surface with towel or shade netting.
Long-term housing considerations should be made if the bird is to be housed for more than a few days. One of the most important considerations is socialization. Vultures are social creatures and they need to see, hear, and interact with other vultures of their same species. VulPro has shown that social interaction greatly increases their wellbeing and improves the chances of a positive outcome. For this reason, it is very important to transfer any patient to a vulture rehabilitation facility if the duration of care is likely to exceed 3-4 days.
Enclosures should be constructed with strong but flexible materials to prevent the birds from injuring themselves when flying around the enclosures and impacting with the sides. Suitable material includes; diamond mesh with a grid size of 60 mm X 60 mm (or 40 mm x 40 mm) and lined internally with shade netting material, (which reduces the impact of the birds colliding with the perimeter fencing). A solid retaining wall should also be constructed around the perimeter of the enclosures, to a height of approximately 80 cm.
A suitable amount of shade has to be provided for the birds and this can be in the form of 90% shade netting or a solid roof, such as fiberglass (corrugated iron becomes very hot but if used, needs to be a suitable height above the birds). A portion of solid roof is recommended (typically 30-50%) for shelter from rain and other weather elements. Course sand or natural grass should be used as substrate, which ensures patient comfort and facilitates cleaning and maintenance. Smooth sand (e.g. building sand) is contraindicated, as it can result in pressure sores and bumble-foot.
Shade netting in strips on each long side of the enclosure should be used with 5m gaps between each long strip, from the top to mid height. The latter enables the birds to see the ends of the enclosure, this is particularly important inside a large (e.g. 40m long) enclosure. This helps prevent the birds from colliding into the ends of the enclosure, which would likely result in trauma, injury and potential death.
Adequate perches and stumps need to be provided within the enclosures with at least one perch per bird plus a couple to spare. Vultures do not have feet that grip particularly well, so they require large, non-slip perches with plenty of space for landing. There should also be a wide range of perches and stumps of various diameters. This provides valuable gripping exercises for the birds. Irregular shapes and contoured surfaces reduce the risk of pressure sores or bumble-foot. Perches should be changed regularly before becoming smooth, which also predisposes the birds to bumble-foot. Perches should be erected at different heights with enough space around them to allow the birds to perch comfortably without their wings encountering adjacent structures. Avoid placing perches in the corners of enclosures as birds tend to touch the sides of the enclosure when landing close to the mesh, damaging their flight feathers.
Vultures love to bath and drink regularly, therefore fresh water is essential to their well-being. The water ponds / baths should be large enough to give the birds enough room to bath in, but shallow with a non-slip surface approximately 20 cm (8 inches) deep. Ponds should be placed at the lowest part of the enclosure (ensures water run-off) and be equipped with a suitable drainage pipe for easy cleaning and maintenance.
For colonial vultures (e.g. Cape Vultures), nesting cliffs should be constructed with 1 metre x 1 metre ledges for each breeding pair in an asymmetric style. The constructed cliff should be able to accommodate a group of perching vultures ( >10) as Cape Vultures breed in groups rather than in isolation.
Enclosure hygiene and maintenance
Left-over food should be removed twice weekly, preferably two days after feeding as vultures tend to regurgitate if disturbed soon after feeding. Feathers, fur and castings should be removed regularly to prevent the potential build-up of pathogens or parasites, or of unsightly detritus. Perches or stumps that have decayed should be removed, burnt and replaced with new ones.
Water ponds and baths must be refilled every day and cleaned every second day. These ponds can simply be brushed and scrubbed out with a broom or scrubbing brush and clean water. Disinfectants should not be used for cleaning with the exceptions of Hibitane (Chlorhexidine) or F10. Use a hard broom, scrubbing brush or metal brush to clean, ensuring that any brush bristles which break off, are removed.
Feeding / Food preparation
Vultures should be fed twice a week on whole carcasses and bone fragments. Whole carcass feeding is ideal for vultures as this provides the birds with the natural nutritional requirements as gained if living in the wild. Bone chips no bigger than 10 cm must be provided to ensure adequate calcium intake, especially during the breeding season. These are best prepared manually, by smashing the ribcage, jaw bone, and spinal column from carcass remains with a mallet. Smaller vultures such as Palm-nut and Egyptian Vultures can be fed with day-old chicks if housed in separate enclosures but they do scavenge and will feed on whole carcasses if sharing enclosures with larger vultures. Some individuals dominate and will bully others, driving the subservient birds from food. Sufficient food should be provided to allow all birds to feed as their turn comes.
All carcasses MUST be free from veterinary drugs, such as pain medication, antibiotics, anaesthetics used in darting and drugs used for euthanasia. Lead bullets should not be used to kill the animals as lead poisoning from fragments in meat is a common source of poisoning. You must know and trust the source of your carcasses and be aware of any prior drug treatments provided.
Below is a list of toxic drugs and toxins which might be encountered when choosing a carcass to feed to vultures. The drugs and toxins below are deadly and must not be fed to vultures. This is not a comprehensive list. Contact VulPro with any questions regarding the safety of any veterinary drugs.
Barbiturates (used for euthanising animals e.g. Phenobarbitone (also known as Pentobarbital))
Potassium Monofloroacetate – a natural toxin contained in some plants, e.g. Gifblaar Dichapetalum cymosum that may be ingested by livestock or game, causing death.
Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs [NSAIDs] are used to treat a variety of ailments in many animal species but are lethal to vultures. Sodium Diclofenac (active ingredient of Voltaren) caused a 99.5% crash in the vulture populations in Asia. There is currently only one safe NSAID for vultures – meloxicam (trade name – Metacam). This drug was previously unavailable for large animals but is now in production and available.
Antibiotics (especially Tetracyclines or Penicillins)
Lead (the main source of lead is from carcasses shot with lead-containing bullets which fragment on impact into many small, often microscopic, pieces. Many vulture fatalities have been linked to lead ingestion. Occasionally livestock die from ingesting lead, especially from car batteries, which may then lead to secondary lead poisoning of vultures.
Livestock insecticide / parasiticidal dips. Any animal recently dipped in organophosphates should not be accessible to vultures.
Other agricultural products that are deadly to vultures and should not be used in known vulture territory include: Strychnine, Aldicarb, Monocrotophos, Methamidophos, Diazinon and Ethylfenthion.
Regardless of the use of any parasiticidal dip treatment, it may sometimes be necessary to skin the animals to prevent the spread of ticks to the birds, particularly if the carcass is heavily infested.
If an animal has been shot through the head, it is critical to remove the head and burn it to avoid lead exposure. Other toxic metals are occasionally used in bullets, e.g. zinc or iron, so all head-shot carcasses should have the head removed or should be avoided entirely. Bullets which are genuinely non-toxic may be left in carcasses intended for vulture consumption.
Recommended food for vultures
- Rats and mice (for smaller vulture species and vulture chicks, i.e. less than 4 months old) - Day-old chicks (for smaller vulture species only)
- Still-borne calves and foals
- Supplementary bone fragments should be provided in all the above diets
Do not feed adult chickens or any birds to vultures, due to the risk of spreading avian diseases.
Whole carcasses should always be the food of choice if the bird is healthy and able to feed itself. However, injured, malnourished and compromised birds may need assistance to get their full nutrient requirements. Weak and young birds (less than 6 months old) are given chunks of meat and bone from cow, pig, or wild game carcasses. Females during the breeding season, and growing birds especially, require a diet with an optimal Calcium to Phosphorus ratio (i.e. bone to muscle ratio, Ca:P ratio of 1.5:1).
It is advisable to prepare 2 litre Tupperware containers with meat when fresh carcasses are available. These tubs are then frozen until needed for feeding vulnerable birds. Pieces are cut only just before the meat is used (i.e. the night before or morning of feeding). Once the tub of meat is defrosted, it cannot be refrozen and should always be kept in the refrigerator until just before feeding. When previously frozen pieces of meat are offered, these are submerged in water, to ensure the patients remain well hydrated. Do not microwave frozen or cooled meat as this will result in the meat starting to cook,which is not suitable for the birds. Vultures only eat raw, preferably fresh meat.
Pieces are cut into thin slices which make assisted feeding, acceptance, and swallowing much easier. These pieces are offered to the birds with long tweezers. It is important to keep in mind that injured birds will be stressed by their surroundings as well as proximity to you. They should always be approached quietly and with a calm demeanour otherwise they are unlikely to feed from you. They may avoid the meat and tweezers at first or may attack the meat before they realize it is edible. Typically, once they appreciate it as food, they will readily eat from tweezers. Once a bird realizes that meat is inside the container, they are likely to self-feed from the container.
It is important to keep records of the history of each bird, the location it was found, injuries, and all treatment administered. This can aid and advise future medical efforts if the bird is taken to another facility. This information can also help build a case for anthropogenic injury; for example, prosecution of someone who laid poison or help make the case for the mitigation of power lines.
The most important data to record are:
o Origin (GPS coordinates, if available)
o Enclosure where housed and with which other birds, if any
o Contact details of person who found the bird
o Any food offered and feeding frequency / schedule
o Drugs administered and schedule
o Behaviour changes and improvement in condition (or lack thereof)
o Physical condition (faeces, etc.) if relevant
✔Check list: basic required rehabilitation equipment
o Vulture-specific crates
Checklist of basic inventory to have on site for rehabilitation efforts:
o silicone/plastic tubing around 30 cm long for oral tubing (IV fluid lines can be recycled for this purpose)
o electrolytes (Darrow’s and Ringer’s lactate solution)
o Intra-venous cannulas (Jelco® 18-20 gauge)
o syringes (60, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1 mL, range for drugs and gavage)
o F10® SC Veterinary Disinfectant spray, water-based
o F10® Germicidal Barrier ointment
o Karbadust® or Frontline® powder
o Necrospray (or honey or other appropriate wound applications)
3. Drugs, listed by their active ingredient and, where relevant, trade names in brackets. Also see CHAPTER 10.
o Atropine (Atropen®, others)
o Enrofloxacin (Baytril®)
o Amoxycillin-Clavulanate (Synulox®)
o Meloxicam (Metacam®, Mobic®)
o Multivitamin (Catasol®)
o Activated charcoal or carbon (CharcoAid®, others)
o Dexamethasone (Kortico® Injection)